Backstage Tweed Jacket from Interweave Knits Fall 2008:
These are some notes on the design and construction of the jacket that I hope will be useful to those thinking of knitting it.
EASE: The jacket was designed with 4-6″ wearing ease (less for the smaller sizes, more for the larger ones), intended as light outwear. I wouldn’t advise to go below 3″ of ease especially if you have wider/muscular shoulders.
YOKE FIT: The jacket looks a little big on the model in the magazine and especially the armholes appear too low. This is the artifact of the yoke stretching out (more than I anticipated) due to the weight of the garment after the yoke was blocked. It was fine before the blocking. To remedy this, I suggest either shortening between the beginning of raglan shaping and the beginning of the cabled yoke (this way you can avail of the yoke chart decreases but make sure you are in the right spot in the cable chart before you begin the yoke), or shortening the yoke by working its decreases more frequently (in which case you would have to figure out some of the decreases on your own). It may be a good idea to block the garment before knitting the collar to assess the fit; if adjustments are needed, you may reknit part of the yoke with more frequent decreases. Another way to address the problem of the yoke fit is to knit it on smaller needles. When I knit this jacket for myself, I will be shortening the body and sleeve about an inch (I am petite), and shortening the yoke.
FASTENINGS: I intended the jacket to be without any fastenings (with optional hook and eye closure). The slip stitch edging wasn’t enough to stabilze the edges, so I added closures at the last minute. This is the reality of working on a very tight de adline. There are many ways to solve the problem of curling front edges and gaping between closures. Whether you end up using any sort of closure or not, stabilize the edges — by knitting facing (miter the corner with the collar facing if you take this route) or by adding a grosgrain/petersham ribbon. If you want to use a zipper as your fastening (I recommend two-way), attach it first and then add the facing for a cleaner finish. You can also knit an extension at the left edge that would go under the right edge (I would think doubled to make it sufficiently firm) and use snaps for an invisible closure. Or you may choose to have closure(s) at the yoke only, if at all. Most of these decisions can be made after the jacket is completed. Personally, ha ving tried the jacket on, I would go for a nice two-way zipper as I want this jacket to be useful in our windy weather. I am considering completely facing the yoke and front bands in fabric, perhaps subtly constrasting silk (an idea for the sewers out there).
OPTIONS: The jacket looks quite attractive without the collar as well. If you don’t like funnel necks, you may consider leaving the collar off and finishing the jacket with a single closure at the top. I think straight-hemmed sleeves and body would look better with this neckline option. I will try to post a sketch later.)